Understanding the Difference Between Hydrating and Moisturizing in Skincare
In the intricate world of skincare, the terms hydration and moisturization are often used interchangeably, leading even seasoned beauty experts to occasionally blur the lines between the two. However, the distinction between hydration and moisturization is crucial, as are the specific ingredients each process involves. So, what exactly differentiates them? And how can you accurately assess whether your skin is dehydrated, dry, or a combination of both, and then choose the most suitable product to address these issues? Renowned dermatologists provide their expert opinions.
Hydrating vs. Moisturizing: What's the Difference?
“While these terms are commonly mixed up due to their overlapping effects, at their core, hydration refers to the process of adding water to the skin, whereas moisturization involves adding oils,” explains Dr. Sheryl Clark, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. Although closely related, this fundamental difference is essential for understanding their roles in skincare. Dr. Clark further emphasizes that both hydration and moisturization are essential for everyone. The simple distinction of ‘hydration equals water’ and ‘moisture equals oil’ provides a solid foundation for differentiating between the two.
Assessing Your Skin: Dry or Dehydrated?
A common misconception is that skin is either dry or dehydrated, but in reality, it's often a blend of both. Dr. Clark points out several key indicators to help differentiate between the two. Dehydrated skin typically looks dull and lacks a healthy glow. “A quick test is to splash your face with lukewarm water and pat it dry. If your skin appears slightly better immediately after, it's likely dehydrated,” she suggests. On the other hand, dry skin, which lacks oils, may also appear dull but is often accompanied by symptoms like inflammation, itching, and rashes. This is because a compromised skin barrier, primarily composed of fat molecules, fails to protect against irritants. Dr. Robyn Gmyrek, another board-certified dermatologist in New York City, explains that a damaged barrier can cause the natural water in deeper skin layers to evaporate quickly, leading to dehydration. Despite this catch-22 situation, both dermatologists agree that the best solution is to use a moisturizer that includes both hydrating and moisturizing ingredients.
Key Ingredients to Look for in a Moisturizer
Humectants
Humectants are the primary ingredients responsible for hydrating the skin, aside from water. They work by drawing and retaining water within the skin. Dr. Gmyrek lists glycerin, hyaluronic acid, honey, and aloe as common examples. While you can find serums that contain only humectants, using them alone can lead to quick evaporation of the skin's surface hydration, reducing their effectiveness. Both dermatologists recommend either layering a humectant serum with a moisturizer or opting for a moisturizer that combines humectants with other essential ingredients.
Emollients
“Emollients are the oily components that make your skin feel instantly soft and smooth when you apply a moisturizer,” explains Dr. Gmyrek. Plant- or nut-based oils, such as coconut, almond, jojoba, and sunflower oils, as well as ingredients like shea butter, fall into this category. Dr. Clark adds that ceramides, which are fatty-acid molecules, are also emollients and help strengthen the skin barrier.
Occlusives
Unlike humectants and emollients, occlusives do not add water or oils to the skin. Instead, they create a barrier on the skin's surface to lock in existing moisture and oils. Common occlusive ingredients in skincare include dimethicone, petrolatum, and beeswax.
Top Moisturizers for Dry and Dehydrated Skin in 2024
For those dealing with dry or dehydrated skin, a moisturizer containing the above-mentioned ingredients can be highly beneficial. Here are seven top-rated options to consider.
Obagi Hydrate ($51.50)
This formula combines hydrating glycerin with emollients like shea butter, mango butter, and avocado oil. Its noncomedogenic nature ensures it won't clog pores, making it ideal for oily or combination skin types.
ClarityRx Feel Better Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizing Cream ($66)
This cream highlights hyaluronic acid, a top humectant, and includes emollients such as jojoba seed oil and squalane for immediate skin softening. The addition of antioxidants enhances its protective benefits.
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hydrating Water Gel Face Moisturizer ($17)
Suitable for all skin types, this gel-based moisturizer is particularly beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin. It's rich in hyaluronic acid and contains dimethicone to lock in hydration.
Dr. Rogers Restore Face Lotion
This lightweight lotion is perfect for oily skin, containing water and glycerin for hydration, along with jojoba ester and squalane for quick absorption.
Senté Dermal Repair Cream ($164)
The dimethicone in this cream forms a protective seal, preventing moisture loss and enhancing the benefits of other ingredients. Its soothing green tea extract and fragrance-free formula make it ideal for sensitive skin.
Furtuna Skin Rinascita Delle Olive Replenishing Balm ($185)
This oil-based balm is perfect for extremely dry skin, enriched with medicinal botanicals that offer antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion ($19)
This versatile lotion is a favorite for simplifying your skincare routine. It combines hyaluronic acid for hydration and ceramides for moisturization, all while providing SPF protection.