The Importance of Skin Care and Rejuvenation in 2024
At Ruli, we firmly believe that cherishing your current skin and aiming for its improvement are not conflicting goals. Whether your objective is to repair sun damage accumulated over time, restore your facial contours to their youthful state, or simply protect your skin with a summer-appropriate regimen—we have assembled comprehensive skin rejuvenation advice for you in our latest series, The Skin You’re In .
The interplay between internal and external factors significantly influences the appearance and aging process of our skin. Chronological aging is driven by the inevitable passage of time and intrinsic characteristics such as genetics and skin tone. “These are the inherent conditions we must contend with,” notes Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, “but the majority of visible aging signs, particularly brown patches and fine lines, originate from external factors like sun exposure.” It is estimated that photoaging accounts for 90% of skin aging. “This is a significant figure, but the good news is that you can actively manage your skin’s future,” Dr. Engelman emphasizes.
The Mechanism of Photoaging
The process of photoaging unfolds as follows: UV light damages the DNA of skin cells and activates free radicals, unstable molecules that can degrade collagen and elastin. Over time, this leads to wrinkles and sagging. Additionally, sun exposure causes hyperpigmentation, or “sunspots,” which result from an overproduction of melanin, the pigment that absorbs ultraviolet light to protect the skin.
While UV light is the primary culprit, it is not the only one. “We once believed that being indoors shielded us from most environmental skin-harming elements, but that is no longer the case,” Dr. Engelman explains. “For instance, UV rays can penetrate windows, and we are now discovering that high-energy visible light (HEV), or blue light, from screens and lighting also affects the skin. Research suggests that HEV may break down collagen, cause DNA damage, and increase melanin production.” Pollution is another contributing factor. “Studies show that people living in more polluted urban areas are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation and other aging signs,” Dr. Engelman adds.
How Skin Tone Affects Photoaging
“Light skin types are more prone to freckles and pigment spots, and they often exhibit more wrinkling and fine lines,” says Dr. Corey L. Hartman, a board-certified dermatologist in Homewood, Alabama. “Light skin is also vulnerable to redness and broken capillaries due to UV damage. Dark skin, which contains more melanin offering an inherent SPF of 8 to 13, does not show the same visible aging, but all skin types experience collagen and elastin degradation, leading to a loss of volume.” Dark skin is prone to hyperpigmentation unrelated to the sun, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and melasma. “Since UV exposure can worsen these conditions, sunscreen is crucial for managing them,” Dr. Engelman advises.
The Indispensability of Sunscreen
“No matter how consistent you are with your skincare routine or how much you invest in anti-aging creams, if you’re not using sunscreen daily, you’re wasting your efforts and money,” Dr. Hartman emphasizes. “Broad-spectrum UV protection is the cornerstone of any effective skincare regimen and is essential for preventing all forms of photoaging. Even though dark skin tones have an inherent SPF of up to 13, that’s not sufficient protection. We recommend using at least SPF 30.” Dr. Hartman favors Isdin Eryfotona Actinica SPF 50+ ($55), “a zinc-only sunscreen that won’t leave a residue on darker skin.” Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the only sunscreen ingredients that protect against blue light. “Iron oxide has also been shown to help block HEV, making a tinted mineral formula ideal,” Dr. Hartman suggests. Consider HydroPeptide Solar Defense Tinted Broad Spectrum SPF 30 ($48).
Home Remedies for Reversing Photodamage
“Antioxidants like vitamin C and E, idebenone, resveratrol, and ferulic acid neutralize the harmful free radicals that your SPF may not fully filter out,” Dr. Engelman explains. “Neutralizing these unstable molecules prevents them from damaging your collagen.” Vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant, helps reduce brown spots and inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which aids in preventing melanin production. It also stimulates collagen production, making it a triple benefit. “I recommend applying a vitamin C serum, such as SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic [$166], to clean skin in the morning and following up with a broad-spectrum sunscreen,” Dr. Engelman advises.
Using a chemical exfoliator with glycolic acid can gradually fade discolorations, and retinoids (including over-the-counter retinol) achieve similar results by accelerating skin-cell turnover. Retinoids also stimulate collagen production. “I use retinoids to address aging skin concerns and treat severe photodamage,” Dr. Engelman says. “For patients with precancers like actinic keratoses, I prescribe topical tretinoin to reverse and repair some of the damage.”
Professional Treatments for Reversing Photodamage
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL)
IPL is often referred to as a photorejuvenation treatment and is the gold standard for repairing sun damage in light skin types. Since IPL targets pigment specifically, “dark skin may not necessarily need this treatment,” Dr. Hartman notes. “IPL acts like a magical eraser for photodamage such as brown, red, or light sunspots—the mottled appearance known as ‘poikiloderma.’” Dr. Hartman recommends a series of three treatments, spaced monthly, followed by quarterly maintenance treatments.
Chemical Peel
Chemical peels effectively remove surface pigment and soften fine lines. “Combinations of acids, such as azelaic, lactic, trichloroacetic [TCA], retinoic, or glycolic, can be tailored to be safe for all skin types,” Dr. Hartman explains. (He typically performs a series of three to six peels, spaced one month apart.) TCA, which is melanotoxic, meaning it destroys melanin-containing cells, is often used to treat sun damage and melasma, but it can be challenging to use on people of color prone to PIH. “I never exceed 15%, and it must be used with great caution,” Dr. Hartman advises. “For dark skin, my preferred peel is the SkinMedica Vitalize peel with retinoic acid, which helps even skin tone without adverse effects.”
Fraxel
“Fractionated laser resurfacing is a treatment suitable for any skin type when performed by a skilled technician,” Dr. Hartman explains. “Fraxel Dual is my go-to for treating hyperpigmentation, melasma, wrinkles, texture issues, and sagging. It can address all these concerns because it uses two wavelengths—one for tightening and one for pigment. One or two treatments are optimal for reversing photodamage.”
