How to Clean Your Pores in 2024
Regardless of whether you are prone to breakouts, pores often become clogged due to the accumulation of dead skin cells, excessive oil production, or a combination of both. Clearing this buildup is essential for maintaining clear and healthy skin, particularly if you have oily skin. It's important to note that clogged pores can affect all skin types; pores are simply the openings of hair follicles, which everyone possesses. While active sebaceous glands (common in oily skin) may increase the likelihood of clogging, other skin types are not entirely immune.
In the worst-case scenario, neglecting to regularly clear pores in your skincare routine can lead to the buildup turning into pimples. For example, the combination of sebum and dead cells can result in blackheads (when the comedone is open, causing the clog to oxidize and turn black) and whiteheads (when the comedone is closed, leaving the clog white). Even if they don't lead to whiteheads, blackheads, or other forms of acne, they can still contribute to the appearance of enlarged pores—since the debris inside can stretch the pore walls.
There are various methods to unclog pores, from traditional DIY pore strips to clay masks. Additionally, there are pore vacuums that offer deep pore-cleansing capabilities. "I see pore vacuums as an alternative to scrubs or exfoliators," says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "You can use them once or twice a week to maintain clear skin and reduce the appearance of pores."
However, with greater power comes greater responsibility. Dr. Deanne Mraz Robinson, a board-certified dermatologist in Westport, Connecticut, warns that using vacuums too vigorously could result in broken capillaries that may require laser treatment for repair. "Continuous use, especially excessive pulling on delicate skin around the eyes and mouth, can lead to wrinkles and skin looseness," she cautions. If you have extremely sensitive skin, rosacea, or are prone to eczema, the suction of a vacuum or manual exfoliation could exacerbate your condition.
To use a pore vacuum safely, Dr. Robinson recommends first loosening the sebum in clogged pores with steam or using the device after a shower (as warm water can enlarge the pores). Follow up with a non-comedogenic, oil-free moisturizer to restore moisture lost during the deep-cleaning process, and apply sunscreen.
With one of these popular pore cleansers, you can reduce your reliance on magnifying mirrors and make better use of your time at home. Perhaps consider starting a sourdough starter?
How to Clean Your Pores
Chemical Exfoliants
Whether you prefer a salicylic acid-based cleanser or a gentle chemical peel, chemical exfoliants—ranging from alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids to fruit enzymes—can help keep pores clear. Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) is particularly effective for clogged pores; its oil-soluble nature allows it to penetrate the pore and clear it from within. Glycolic acid, a type of alpha hydroxy acid, also aids in dissolving the substance that binds dead cells together on the skin's surface, facilitating their shedding. Chemical exfoliants can also be found in toners and face masks.
Retinoids
Retinoids—the collective term for both prescription-strength retinoids and over-the-counter retinol—are well-known for keeping pores clean and unclogged. They accelerate cellular turnover, allowing the skin to shed dead skin cells and bring healthy ones to the surface, and can also stimulate collagen production. This makes them ideal for dealing with adult acne, as retinoids address both acne and signs of aging. Ensure to use retinoids at night and follow with sunscreen during the day, as they can make the skin sensitive to sunlight. (FYI: The American Academy of Dermatology recommends a minimum of SPF 30 for optimal protection.)
Face Masks
While clay-based face masks have traditionally been favored for removing grime and oil, they can sometimes strip the skin of its natural oils. Instead, opt for charcoal masks; charcoal draws out blockages from pores without drying the skin. Avoid homemade face masks containing baking soda, as they can be too harsh and may cause irritation.
Pore-Cleaning Vacuums
Rodan + Fields Pore Cleansing MD System, $260
This device, with its combination of suction and pressure along with interchangeable heads, is comparable to medical-grade options, according to Dr. Rita Linkner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. It offers a two-speed suction tip for removing debris from pores and a spring-action pressure tip designed to target individual blackheads, mimicking the extraction process. The pretreatment serum, containing salicylic and lactic acids, breaks down pore-clogging skin cells and sebum to prepare the skin. "This leads to a more effective overall treatment," Dr. Linkner explains. "The disposable heads add a layer of sterility to the system, which is crucial when treating active acne and preventing the risk of spread."
PMD Personal Microderm Classic, $159
This tool, with its oscillating aluminum oxide crystal disc working with suction, is on par with professional facials. "It removes dead skin cells on the surface, allowing the suction to better reach what's inside the pore," Dr. Robinson says. Removing this dull layer leaves the skin smoother and more radiant, and means fewer clogging keratinocytes in the future. The addition of a larger tip for treating larger body areas, like the upper arms, adds flexibility, especially for conditions like keratosis pilaris. PMD provides three discs to vary the intensity of exfoliation. Start with the gentlest one and make only one pass over each area of the face to avoid bruising.
Spa Sciences MIO, $29
This device stands out due to its fine diamond particles that physically exfoliate the top layer of the skin. "Diamond tips are gentle, effective, and durable," Dr. Zeichner says. "Extremely fine particles provide gentle exfoliation to remove dead skin cells and enhance light reflection." Dr. Henry adds that polishing away the surface layers not only brightens the complexion but also stimulates the skin to promote the growth of healthy new skin cells. The MIO offers five speed settings, allowing you to stay in the lower range to avoid extreme stress on your skin. Plus, the three suction tips are designed to conform to challenging areas of the T-zone where blackheads gather, such as the edges of the nose and the chin.
Dermaflash Dermapore, $99
The Dermapore uses sonic vibration to release dirt, oil, and dead skin from pores, aiding in blackhead extraction. "Sonic vibrations are extremely gentle and can help dislodge microscopic blockages in the skin," Dr. Zeichner says. This is a gentler option than manual extraction, according to Dr. Henry, but applying too much pressure with the device can permanently enlarge pores or cause broken blood vessels. She advises starting with the ultra-sensitive setting to manage the force before increasing the intensity. This tool gains points for its multifunctionality: switch to Infuse mode, and the vibrations will assist serums and moisturizers in penetrating for better absorption.
Gugug Skin Scrubber, $25
This high-frequency vibrating stainless steel spatula not only frees sebum but also releases positive ions, which assist in the pore-cleaning process by "attracting negatively charged impurities in the pores and drawing them out," Dr. Henry explains. Switching the ionic current from positive to negative enables you to drive in active ingredients by enhancing the penetration of your skincare products. Put the wand in Lifting mode for massaging benefits that help tone the facial muscles like an automated gua sha tool to subtly define your features.