Embracing 40 and Navigating Skin Transformations
Entering the age of 40 no longer carries the societal stigma it once did. While society still values youth, many successful women, including Jennifer Lopez and Jennifer Aniston, have openly embraced aging, highlighting the wisdom and confidence it brings. (Witnessing Lopez in Hustlers should dispel any fears about growing older.) However, this decade brings certain undeniable changes, particularly in the skin.
In our youth, breakouts might have been our primary concern. While acne remains an issue for some adults, the 40s introduce a variety of new skin challenges, regardless of skin type. So, what exactly happens physiologically at this age? “As you enter your 40s, collagen production slows down, antioxidant defenses weaken, and the skin becomes less effective at protecting itself from environmental factors,” explains Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
Dr. Manish Shah, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Denver, adds that after 40, our bodies break down collagen faster than it can be produced. “This collagen deficiency affects how your skin functions and looks. Collagen is essential for the skin's connective tissue and provides firmness,” he notes. “Elastin, another protein similar to collagen, gives the skin its elasticity. The reduction of these proteins can lead to more visible signs of aging.”
Here are seven changes that can occur to your skin in your 40s due to the decline in collagen and elastin. The good news? There are skincare products, active ingredients, and beneficial habits you can start now, regardless of your age.
Condition: Fine Lines and Wrinkles Become More Pronounced
When considering older skin, fine lines and wrinkles are often the first concerns, due to a loss of elasticity. Wrinkles are usually more noticeable in areas with frequent movement, such as around the mouth and eyes (from smiling) or on the forehead.
How to Address It
A comprehensive skincare routine should include anti-aging ingredients. “In your 40s, you can use antioxidant serums in the morning and topical retinoids in the evening,” advises Dr. Zeichner. “Retinoids help stimulate collagen, strengthen the skin's foundation, and improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.” Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is available over-the-counter in serums or creams and should be part of your nighttime routine; remember to use SPF during the day as it can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. Peptides can also be beneficial, as certain types help promote new collagen and elastin production.
For in-office treatments, Dr. Zeichner suggests fractionated resurfacing lasers like Fraxel to improve crepey skin and fine lines. “Neurotoxins such as Dysport and Botox can help reduce lines caused by facial expressions, like the ‘eleven’ lines between the eyebrows,” he adds.
Related: The In-Office Treatment I Received at Age 40 Resulted in Skin So Smooth, I Can Now Skip Foundation
Condition: Dry Skin Becomes More Common
Even if you weren't prone to dryness before, it can develop over time as the skin barrier loses essential elements. “Dry skin can affect people of all ages. After a certain age, it can worsen and contribute to deeper wrinkles and fine lines,” Dr. Shah explains. “As we age, the natural oils, fatty acids, and lipids in our skin decrease, leading to dryness and aging signs.”
How to Tackle It
Start by ensuring you drink enough water, maintain hydration, and use a hydrating serum (with humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin) and a quality night cream. “Apply a rich moisturizer in the evening to restore skin hydration while you sleep,” advises Dr. Zeichner.
Condition: Dark Spots Appear
Hyperpigmentation can be a concern. While you might have enjoyed freckles as a child, age spots are a different issue. As we age, freckles can turn into solar lentigines, also known as age spots or sun spots, due to sun damage. While skin cancers like lentigo maligna melanoma are serious, freckles and solar lentigines are benign. If you're unhappy with age spots, there are several solutions.
How to Treat It
Chemical peels and laser treatments like Fraxel and Nd:YAG can help. For topical treatments, a vitamin C serum can be effective. “Antioxidants like vitamin C support healthy collagen production, protect against free radical damage, and brighten uneven skin tone and pigmentation,” notes Dr. Zeichner.
Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, can also help prevent overproduction of pigment. Proper sun protection with broad-spectrum SPF is crucial, as sun exposure is the main cause of these spots.
Condition: Skin Appears Duller
Rosy cheeks symbolize youth, but dullness can become an issue in later years. “As we age, our skin's ability to renew surface cells decreases, leading to a buildup of dead cells,” Dr. Shah explains. “This obscures the natural rosy hue, making the complexion look lackluster and losing its youthful glow.”
How to Rectify It
Use a good at-home exfoliator. “Exfoliating weekly is the most effective way to prevent dull skin,” says Dr. Shah. “It's simple and cost-effective.” He recommends physical exfoliators with fine granules like pearl powder and jojoba beads, which are biodegradable, or stronger exfoliants like pumice crystal if you don't have dermatitis or other skin sensitivities. Chemical exfoliants like lactic or glycolic acids can also help dissolve dead skin cells and promote brightening.
“Many exfoliating products contain drying ingredients and alcohol, which can weaken the skin's protective barrier – it's best to avoid those,” Dr. Shah advises. “Physical exfoliant tools, with various textures like bristles and rubber, can also help massage the face and remove dead skin and dirt.”
Condition: Hollowness Becomes Evident
“With age, we lose volume in the face, leading to sagging and hollowness,” Dr. Zeichner says. “Hollow temples and under-eyes develop. Cheeks droop, worsening nasal labial folds and jowls.”
How to Deal With It
Consider injectable dermal fillers like Juvéderm, Sculptra, or Restylane to restore lost volume. Dr. Zeichner recommends Sculptra for those with volume loss and a slender face. “It can be used across the face, especially the temples,” he says, noting it shouldn't be used on the lips. “It stimulates collagen production from your body, with results lasting several years.”
Radiesse, a calcium-based filler, is ideal for deep placement along the bone to lift areas like the cheeks. It provides immediate results and stimulates collagen production, lasting up to two years. “Soft, flexible products like Juvéderm Ultra or Restylane Refyne are best for nasal labial folds, helping to plump without becoming firm or noticeable,” Dr. Zeichner says. “For deeper lines, Juvéderm Ultra Plus or Restylane Defyne are good alternatives, slightly more resilient than Ultra and Refyne.”
For cheeks, Dr. Zeichner prefers products with strong lifting properties like Restylane Lyft, Voluma, and Radiesse, which are long-lasting. “For temples, various products can be used. Sculptra builds collagen from your body. Restylane and Juvéderm products are also commonly used,” he says.
Related: 8 Methods to Eliminate Under-Eye Circles – From Makeup to Medical Treatments
Condition: Skin Texture Changes
Dr. Shah notes that improper cleansing and moisturizing in younger years can lead to skin texture loss of smoothness. “In our 40s, this issue becomes more common. Reduced elastin production causes the skin to sag,” he says. This change also affects the eye area, making dark circles and puffiness more pronounced.
How to Improve It
Chemical peels are in-office treatments using chemicals to deeply exfoliate, prompting skin cell turnover and fresh skin. Types range from superficial to deep, with acids like lactic to salicylic, depending on skin concerns.
At home, incorporate retinol into your routine. Retinols help with skin tone and texture and reduce signs of aging like fine lines and wrinkles. They're easily available at drugstores. Also, consider a dedicated eye cream and gentle eye makeup remover.
Condition: Skin Fragility Increases
In our 40s, skin becomes more delicate. “The skin becomes more fragile due to a flattening where the epidermis and dermis meet,” Dr. Shah says. This means the outer layers thin and lose lipid production, essential for skin health and smoothness. These lipids are ceramides. “Production declines in your 20s, and by 40, without addressing ceramide loss, the epidermis can thin and become more fragile,” he explains.
How to Manage It
This change can make skin more sensitive to certain ingredients, leading to irritation or allergic reactions. Dr. Zeichner advises caution with potentially irritating substances like retinol or hydroxy acids. Skin allergies or irritation can occur immediately after first use, while allergic reactions typically develop after multiple uses.
“The immune system becomes sensitized to a specific ingredient and reacts upon re-exposure,” he says. “For sensitive skin, choose fragrance-free products. Fragrances are a common cause of skin allergies. For highly reactive skin, visit a dermatologist for patch testing to identify allergens. Dyes and preservatives are also common allergens.” Monitor your skin's response – you might need a gentler cleanser or simpler skincare routine.
Conclusion
If you don't have sensitive skin, there are many actions to enhance your complexion. Dr. Shah recommends in-office treatments like dermabrasion, laser skin resurfacing, and microneedling. “At home, focus on prevention – moisturizing, exfoliating, and hydrating with serums,” he says. A vitamin C serum can help with hyperpigmentation, brighten skin, and protect against environmental damage. Incorporate AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) to treat sun damage and improve texture.
However, doctors warn against over-treating the skin. Dr. Zeichner notes this is a common mistake for those in their 40s, especially if they didn't focus on skincare in their younger years. He typically advises using no more than two products in both morning and evening routines. In the morning, focus on sun protection with an antioxidant and sunscreen lotion. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends at least SPF 30.
In the evening, prioritize rest and repair with a face moisturizer and topical retinoid, plus a face wash. “Stick to simple routines and avoid overapplying multiple products,” he advises. “This often leads to more irritation and harm rather than benefits.”
