Regardless of how knowledgeable you are about various types of cancer or how ready you feel for its possible impact on your life, its arrival is always a shock. This devastating news brings with it further surprises, such as how you emotionally handle the diagnosis, how you experience your treatment, and whether your priorities change.
If you've regularly engaged in occasional cosmetic treatments, you might find that your desire to continue these procedures during cancer therapy remains strong. In reality, as cancer and its treatments often take a toll on appearance, your urge for beauty treatments might even intensify.
Naturally, treatments like chemotherapy and radiation are paramount, regardless of how highly beauty is valued. However, while elective cosmetic surgery is out of the question, doctors confirm that there are non-invasive beauty treatments that can be safely combined with cancer therapies.
“When patients are actively undergoing cancer treatment, the primary concern is the state of their immune system,” notes Dr. Manish Shah, a plastic surgeon in Denver. “Working with their oncology physician, I ensure I have approval to proceed with elective treatments as long as the patient is not at high risk for complications.” Below, doctors outline which treatments are safe during cancer therapy and which should be postponed.
What’s safe
Chemical peels
Dr. Morgan Rabach, a dermatologist in New York City, strongly advocates for certain treatments during this difficult time. For instance, superficial chemical peels—where a mild acidic solution is applied to the skin to speed up cell turnover, addressing issues like acne scars, hyperpigmentation, rough texture, and fine lines—are an option that won't disrupt a patient's cancer care. “These treatments make people feel better, more rejuvenated, and closer to their best selves,” says Dr. Rabach, who adds that mild chemical peels have “minimal recovery time and discomfort and can make a significant difference.”
Related: Chemical Peels: Beyond the Basics
HydraFacial
For a less invasive skin-enhancing treatment, Dr. Rabach recommends HydraFacials, which she deems “completely safe” for those undergoing chemotherapy. This facial, a medical-grade resurfacing treatment that gently removes dead skin cells and debris while hydrating the skin with serums, takes about 30 minutes and results in virtually no recovery period. Like any facial, Dr. Rabach states, HydraFacials can be quite soothing, providing patients with a much-needed psychological boost in addition to skin benefits.
Hyaluronic acid fillers
Dr. Rabach similarly supports hyaluronic acid-based injectables like Juvederm and Restylane, provided the practitioner is exceptionally diligent. “Small amounts of filler are acceptable during chemo or radiation, but the patient needs to be examined by a board-certified dermatologist or facial plastic surgeon to minimize the risk of bruising and infection,” she explains, noting that fillers can help restore facial volume in those who have lost significant weight. “We use special soaps for immunocompromised individuals [to clean the injection site] and specific techniques, like using a cannula—a blunt, tubular instrument to reduce bruising.”
Dr. Shah echoes this cautiously optimistic view of hyaluronic acid fillers, which can be used in areas such as the lips, cheeks, and nasolabial folds. “Hyaluronic acid filler injections should not be an issue for patients on chemotherapy,” he states, emphasizing the importance of ensuring the injection site is exceptionally clean and properly prepared with a surgical prep solution to reduce surface bacteria.
What to avoid
Neurotoxins
While fillers are approved, not all injectables are recommended during cancer treatment. Botox and other neurotoxin injections, which reduce the appearance of forehead and eye-area lines, are safe for the general population but pose higher risks for cancer patients. “Neurotoxin injections are contraindicated in active cancer treatment because you want to limit the possibility that a weakened immune system would allow the neurotoxin to spread beyond intended areas,” says Dr. Shah. “The last thing you want is for your patient to develop botulism.”
Related: What’s the Difference Between Botox, Dysport, Xeomin and Jeuveau?
Kybella
Kybella, used to reduce fat in areas like under the chin, is another injection to avoid during cancer treatment. Dr. Shah explains that it works through chemically induced inflammatory destruction of fat cells. “Kybella carries a risk of chemical ulcer formation and tissue necrosis,” he says. “Both outcomes increase the risk of systemic infection and death in cancer patients.”
Moreover, Kybella might make an already physically uncomfortable cancer patient feel worse. “I would not recommend it, out of consideration for the patient's comfort,” Dr. Rabach remarks. “Kybella can cause significant swelling and bruising after treatment.”
Lasers
Another treatment Dr. Rabach advises cancer patients to avoid, partly due to excessive discomfort, is laser resurfacing. “Treatments like Fraxel are painful and might be too much to handle when not feeling well otherwise,” she explains, adding that the risk of infection is another strong reason to postpone resurfacing lasers. “Lasers create tiny injury zones in the skin, and in some immunocompromised patients, these zones are more prone to complications like viral and bacterial infections.” These infections are harder to fight while immunocompromised and can lead to discomfort and scarring.
Hair removal, although using a different type of laser than those for skin resurfacing, should also be delayed. “While laser hair removal is safer than laser resurfacing, several chemotherapeutic agents make the skin more sensitive to light,” Dr. Shah says. “This means the risk of a burn is higher—so this treatment is contraindicated in active cancer treatment, in most cases.”
The bottom line
Ultimately, the primary concern of a responsible, board-certified dermatologist or plastic surgeon is not just aesthetic results but also patient health and safety, which sometimes means saying no to certain cosmetic treatments during cancer therapies. “I believe it's great for patients to do things that make them feel better. Cancer therapy is a tough battle for most patients. However, the benefits of elective cosmetic procedures need to be weighed against the risks,” says Dr. Shah. “It's always beneficial for a patient to work closely with their oncologist to determine when they are safest for elective cosmetic procedures. If all parties agree, the likelihood of a safe cosmetic procedure increases.”
But if your medical team doesn't support cosmetic procedures during chemotherapy or radiation, that doesn't mean you can't do things that make you look and feel your best. “We encourage patients to practice excellent self-care,” says Dr. Rabach. “Sometimes a simple, luxurious mask or skincare product can really lift spirits.”
