The Art of Using Retinoids: A Balanced Approach to Skincare
Using retinoids in your skincare routine is like seasoning a dish with just the right amount of cayenne pepper. You need the perfect amount to notice the effects, but too much can overpower everything. For those new to retinoids, incorporating tretinoin (also known as retinoic acid or pure vitamin A, the active ingredient in Retin-A) into their regimen is akin to diving into a spicy chili – it can be overwhelming at first.
Despite its potential to cause irritation, tretinoin stands out as a powerful anti-aging ingredient, largely due to its proven effectiveness. This versatile, cell-regulating agent has been backed by decades of peer-reviewed studies showing its ability to boost collagen production, reduce sebum output, and inhibit pigment formation. However, this effectiveness comes with a trade-off: a period of redness and flaking, known to dermatologists as retinization. This adjustment phase typically lasts two to three weeks as the skin adapts to the retinoid.
This is where over-the-counter retinols come into play. They offer a gentler alternative, providing similar benefits to prescription versions, notes Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "Both retinol and prescription tretinoin work through the same mechanism within the skin," he explains.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared 0.1% retinol with 0.1% retinoic acid and found that both increased epidermal thickness and collagen gene expression after four weeks. Additionally, retinol significantly reduced wrinkles after 12 weeks.
Within the skin, retinol gradually converts into retinoic acid through a series of enzyme reactions. This conversion process takes time, so results from retinol products may take longer to appear, according to Dr. Zeichner. However, the slower action of retinol results in less irritation.
"I am a big fan of retinols. I believe they should be included in every topical product," says Dr. Michelle Henry, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "It's rare to find a patient who wouldn't benefit from them. There are now many formulations that allow me to introduce even the most sensitive skin types to retinol once a week."
So, which over-the-counter retinols can rival prescription alternatives? Leading dermatologists and beauty editors share their top picks.
Alastin Renewal Retinol ($55)
Dr. Papri Sarkar, a board-certified dermatologist in Brookline, Massachusetts, loves this serum because it contains varying concentrations of retinol encapsulated in a lipid that gradually releases the active ingredient, minimizing irritation. She starts patients with the 0.25% option and moves them to the 0.5% version once they build tolerance. Soothing ingredients like oat extract, bisabolol, and hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone help counteract irritation.
Related: Retinol vs. Vitamin C for Skincare: Know the Difference and What’s Right for You
Alchimie Forever Advanced Retinol Serum ($99)
The 0.75% retinol complex is encapsulated in a matrix designed to dissolve in the skin's sebum. This delivery system significantly slows the release of retinol, allowing for a high concentration of the active ingredient with reduced irritation risk. According to Dr. Tina Alster, a board-certified dermatologist in Washington D.C., additional benefits include hydrating hyaluronic acid and a blend of soothing botanicals, including antioxidant green tea.
Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment ($12.99)
"In my opinion, this is the best over-the-counter retinoid," says Dr. Shari Marchbein, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. It contains adapalene, a retinoid that is the first new active ingredient for acne treatment approved by the FDA at prescription strength since the 1980s.
CeraVe Renewing Retinol Serum ($16.99)
Three ceramides help strengthen the skin barrier, buffering against the irritating effects of retinol, making this serum another favorite of Dr. Marchbein's. Niacinamide and licorice root protect against redness and inflammation.
Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74)
Despite containing 1% pure retinol, this luxurious formula, a favorite of Dr. Henry, nourishes the skin with its lipid-rich base.
Olay Retinol 24 ($38.99)
Olay contains two retinoids – retinol and the milder retinyl propionate – suspended in oil droplets. According to Dr. Zeichner, retinyl propionate is one of the most tolerable forms of vitamin A because it requires three conversions to become retinoic acid, making it less likely to cause irritation.
Related: How Dermatologists Recommend Treating Dry, Winter Skin
RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream ($24.99)
This popular cream combines retinol with glycolic acid to enhance exfoliation, resulting in smoother, younger-looking skin, notes Cincinnati cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos. Minerals, squalane, and shea butter soothe the skin during the process.
Perricone MD Acne Relief Retinol Treatment & Moisturizer ($45)
Ruli Deputy Editor Alix Tunell noticed a significant improvement in her skin's radiance and tone after just one week of using this treatment. "It delivers results similar to a chemical peel but can dry out my forehead and cheeks, so I now use a richer moisturizer on top and apply it three times a week," she notes.
SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream ($120)
Dr. Estee Williams, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, praises the engineering behind this award-winning formula. Ethyl lactyl retinoate, a hybrid molecule combining a retinoid and lactic acid, gradually releases its active ingredients, maximizing efficacy while minimizing irritation. Antioxidants, squalane, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid make the blend less irritating than traditional retinol and tretinoin, according to a company-sponsored study.
SkinMedica Retinol Complex 0.25 ($62)
Dr. Henry considers this cream an ideal starting point for retinoids. The low concentration of retinol ensures it won't cause irritation, and the proprietary antioxidant complex ensures gradual release.
Sobel Skin Rx 4.5% Retinol Night Treatment ($105)
Don't be alarmed by the 4.5% retinol content, even though over-the-counter products typically cap at 2%, says Tunell. This potent formula uses a proprietary encapsulated delivery system and soothing ingredients like chamomile and shea butter to protect the skin from inflammation.
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Topical Retinoid Acne Treatment ($29.99)
Dr. Evan Rieder, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, recommends this prescription-strength gel for its anti-aging benefits and ability to clear clogged pores, blackheads, and whiteheads.
The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane ($9.60)
Granactive retinoid, the trade name for hydroxypinacolone retinoate, represents the latest advancement in retinoids, according to Dobos. Unlike typical OTC retinoids, which need to convert into retinoic acid to be effective, this one interacts directly with the skin without initial breakdown. The lipid-rich base ensures smooth delivery.
