Among the myriad of treatments designed to enhance skin quality, facials stand out as one of the most calming experiences—even when they involve extractions. The tranquility of having your face cleansed, moisturized, and massaged for an hour, all while the soothing sounds of spa music fill the room, is unparalleled. However, this pampering session is not just about relaxation; it significantly benefits your skin as well. Such meticulous care often results in a radiant glow post-treatment—unless you happen to encounter an inexperienced practitioner.
A poorly executed facial can inflict substantial damage on your skin, making it essential to watch for red flags that might indicate you're about to receive a substandard experience. We sought insights from two seasoned professionals to outline exactly what should—and should not—happen during a facial session.
Your current skincare routine should be discussed.
“ Your aesthetician should consistently inquire about the products you use at home,” explains Cynthia Rivas, a licensed aesthetician in New York City. “I've seen cases where clients using retinol or certain acids at home experience irritation or even burns after undergoing a professional treatment that is too intense or aggressive for their skin.” A thorough consultation ensures that the facialist selects a treatment that complements your existing skincare regimen, preventing excessive exfoliation and potential irritation.
Your skin should be thoroughly examined before the treatment begins.
After discussing your personal skincare routine and concerns, your facialist should conduct a comprehensive examination of your face. “ There should be a moment where the facialist evaluates your skin before starting any treatment,” notes Rivas. “This assessment should involve both visual inspection and tactile examination.” Yulia Gerchik, an aesthetician at Daphne Studio in New York City, adds: “We always begin by analyzing the client’s skin to prescribe the appropriate products and treatments.” This evaluation is crucial for the aesthetician to understand your skin type better, allowing them to tailor the facial to your specific needs.
Your aesthetician should be knowledgeable and able to answer all your questions.
“Always choose a well-informed facialist,” advises Rivas. “They should be able to walk you through the treatment and explain why certain products or treatments were selected for your skin.” Since aestheticians are skincare experts, if yours can't answer questions about the facial, the products used, or their ingredients, it might be time to find a new practitioner.
Avoid facialists with long nails.
“A major red flag is a facialist with long nails,” warns Rivas. “Not only is there a risk of being scratched, but bacteria also accumulates under the nails.” Considering the number of clients a facialist sees daily, the amount of bacteria they could potentially transfer is significant. This increases the risk of new breakouts or worsening existing skin issues, so opt for an aesthetician with short, clean nails.
Your aesthetician should wash their hands before starting the treatment.
Given the potential for bacteria to disrupt your skin, it's crucial that your aesthetician cleans their hands thoroughly before touching your face, much like a surgeon preparing for an operation. “The facialist should always wash their hands or use a disinfectant before making contact with your face,” emphasizes Rivas. “Cleanliness is paramount.”
Avoid extractions on cystic acne.
Cystic acne is much deeper and often more severe than typical breakouts. It requires professional treatment by a dermatologist, not a facialist. “Cystic acne should never be extracted by a facialist, as attempting to pop it can lead to scarring and worsen the condition by spreading the bacteria,” cautions Rivas. While it's acceptable for your facialist to use ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide to treat cystic acne, no squeezing, popping, or pinching should be done.
Your skin should not look worse after the facial.
“You should always leave looking better than when you arrived,” says Gerchik. “A slight redness or flush is normal, but the skin should not be hot, inflamed, or show signs of bleeding—especially after extractions.” Most facialists take time to soothe the skin post-extractions, so any prolonged irritation or bleeding after the session should be addressed immediately—even if it means consulting a dermatologist.
You should not experience unbearable pain during the facial.
While extractions are rarely pleasant, the discomfort you feel should not be excruciating. If it is, speak up, as it could indicate that the facialist is being too aggressive or that you're reacting to a product. A good aesthetician will encourage you to voice any concerns, so don't hesitate to do so.