Infrared Light and Skin Fact or Fiction

• 03/01/2025 21:10

The Science Behind Infrared Light Therapy: Separating Fact from Fiction

In today's world, beauty claims are ubiquitous, coming from social media influencers, television commercials, product labels, and even our close circles. However, not all of these claims are grounded in scientific truth. In our ongoing series, "Science or Suspect," we aim to distinguish between what is scientifically valid and what is merely speculative.

Infrared Light and Skin Fact or Fiction

When it comes to skin health, we are often advised to avoid sunlight to prevent skin cancer and, more recently, to be cautious of the light emitted by our devices. However, there is also a growing interest in the therapeutic potential of light, particularly infrared light. Infrared light therapy has been touted as a cure-all for various ailments, from muscle pain to Alzheimer's disease and acne. But what does the science say about its effects on skin?

Infrared light therapy has garnered significant attention in the beauty and wellness industries. Aestheticians and dermatologists often incorporate it into facial treatments, while many skincare brands have developed home-use devices that combine infrared and LED lights. Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, explains, "When infrared light is used in a device, it is believed to help enhance collagen production, reduce inflammation, and improve skin cell repair." Additionally, specialized spas like HigherDose offer infrared sauna treatments, promising benefits such as "skin purification."

Understanding Infrared Light

All forms of light are categorized on the electromagnetic spectrum, with visible light falling between ultraviolet and infrared. Within visible light, blue light has one of the shortest wavelengths (between 380 nm and 500 nm), while red light ranges from 400–700 nm. Red light, commonly used alongside infrared in skin treatments, is adjacent to infrared on the electromagnetic spectrum. Although we cannot see infrared light with the naked eye, our bodies can perceive it as heat. Dr. Garshick notes, "Infrared light, or infrared radiation, can be produced by the sun, hair dryers, ovens, and other light sources. In fact, infrared constitutes more than 50% of the solar energy that reaches Earth's surface."

The Three Types of Infrared Light

There are three types of infrared radiation: near-infrared (760 nm to 1400 nm), mid-infrared (1,400 nm to 3,000 nm), and far-infrared (3,000 nm to 1 mm). Far-infrared, due to its longer wavelength, can penetrate the body more deeply than near- or mid-infrared. Proponents of infrared light therapy claim that all three types offer distinct benefits. Kyle Jones, cofounder of iCRYO, a recovery and wellness center offering infrared sauna services, states that all three can enhance skin health. He cites a NASA study on near-infrared and red light therapy, which showed their effectiveness in improving wound healing by reducing inflammation and increasing collagen production.

Dermatologists and skin experts often focus on near-infrared. Dr. Garshick explains, "Low-level light therapy involves exposing the skin to low levels of red and near-infrared light, which helps stimulate tissue repair and healing." She adds that this therapy can also improve fine lines, wrinkles, acne, and acne scars.

Near-infrared can be combined with other LED spectrum lights. Dr. Shari Sperling, a board-certified dermatologist in Florham Park, New Jersey, suggests that it can work alongside blue light for acne treatment, white light for skin firming and inflammation reduction, and red light for collagen and elastin enhancement.

Dr. Ronald Moy, a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills, California, believes that combining infrared light therapy with LED chromotherapy can improve skin health. "Infrared light therapy penetrates the skin to stimulate cell production," he remarks. However, he is skeptical about the benefits of using infrared light alone, citing limited scientific evidence mostly based on laboratory experiments with cell cultures.

Dr. Garshick, on the other hand, believes that infrared can be beneficial when used independently. "Infrared, which is felt as heat but is invisible, can still be used on its own, though many devices combine near-infrared with LED," she says. "Infrared is adjacent to red light on the electromagnetic spectrum, but because it has a longer wavelength, it can penetrate deeper—making it helpful for healing and skin regeneration, even by itself."

While dermatologists seem to favor near-infrared and red light, there is limited discussion about the benefits of mid- and far-infrared light. Research on mid-infrared's effects on the skin is scarce, but several studies support far-infrared. One study found that far-infrared facilitated wound healing in rats. Another study treated 20 patients with mild to moderate facial wrinkles and hyperpigmentation with far infrared radiation (900–1000 µm) and found improvements in skin texture and roughness after six months.

Potential Risks of Infrared Light Exposure

Despite the potential benefits, there are concerns to consider. A recent study at Newcastle University in England concluded that UV rays are not the only type of light that can penetrate deep into the skin and cause damage—visible and infrared light can also harm skin cells. Dr. Moy explains, "The study reveals that the deeper dermal layer of the skin is damaged by UV, visible, and infrared light." The combination of UV rays with infrared and visible light resulted in more cellular damage than UV rays alone, suggesting increased premature aging for those exposed to all three wavelengths simultaneously.

Another risk pertains to melasma and hyperpigmentation. Dr. Garshick advises patients with these conditions to avoid infrared light treatments. "Although UV light can exacerbate melasma and hyperpigmentation, infrared heat is also thought to worsen these conditions by stimulating pigment cell production," she says. To combat this, various skincare products are being developed to protect the skin from infrared heat damage, often in the form of antioxidants.

Dr. Garshick recommends products like Obagi Medical Sun Shield Tint Broad Spectrum and Skinmedica Total Defense and Repair SPF 50, which protect against UV and infrared rays. She also suggests topical antioxidants like Skinceuticals CE Ferulic to neutralize free radicals induced by infrared and UV radiation.

While infrared light therapy has gained popularity, more research is needed to fully understand its effects and potential risks.

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