Chemical peels have been a staple in professional skincare for decades, tracing their roots back to ancient Egypt. Among the myriad of peels available, the Jessner peel has stood the test of time, remaining a top choice for nearly a century. Named after Dr. Max Jessner, the German-American dermatologist who pioneered the solution, this peel is renowned for its ability to tackle hyperpigmentation, even out skin tone, smooth fine lines, combat acne, and reduce the appearance of scars. However, like any skincare procedure, there are several factors to consider when deciding if a Jessner peel is right for you, and important aspects to keep in mind before, during, and after the treatment.
1. What is a Jessner peel?
Chemical peels work by applying a concentrated blend of active ingredients to the skin for a short duration, and the Jessner peel follows this principle. "It consists of a mix of resorcinol, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and ethanol, which help to break down the connections between skin cells, facilitating the removal of dead skin cells," elucidates Dr. Marisa Garshick, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. "In some instances, a modified Jessner peel is used, substituting trichloroacetic acid for resorcinol." This modification is often made to reduce the risk of complications like scarring, as a lower concentration of trichloroacetic acid achieves the same peeling depth. Depending on the exact formulation and the number of applications, the peel can range from a light, superficial treatment that affects only the epidermis, to a medium-depth peel that targets the upper layers of the dermis. However, dermatologists commonly classify it as a medium-depth peel.
2. What skin issues does a Jessner peel address?
The Jessner peel's ability to disrupt the bonds between skin cells, promoting exfoliation, makes it versatile for addressing a wide array of skin concerns. Thanks to its inclusion of salicylic acid, "the peel can decrease oil production and aid in healing acne across all skin tones," notes Dr. Hadley King, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Jessner peels are also employed to manage melasma, hyperpigmentation, and scarring. Additionally, they offer anti-aging benefits by promoting collagen remodeling and reducing the visibility of fine lines.
3. Who is the ideal candidate for a Jessner peel?
With its extensive range of benefits, the Jessner peel is suitable for almost everyone, though some individuals may see better results than others. "Generally, it is most effective for those looking to improve hyperpigmentation or photoaging," Dr. Garshick comments. The peel is particularly beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin due to its acne-treating and hyperpigmentation-lightening properties. "While at certain depths, it may be more appropriate for lighter skin types, consulting a trained professional ensures its safe and careful application in darker skin tones," explains Dr. Garshick.
4. How is a Jessner peel applied?
Prior to a Jessner peel, thorough cleansing of the skin is essential to ensure the peeling solution penetrates evenly and effectively. "The solution is then gently applied to the skin, usually with a gauze, brush, or cotton-tipped applicator, and multiple coats are applied until a white frost appears," Dr. King explains. The solution is removed after a few minutes. Unlike many other chemical peels, the Jessner peel does not require neutralization. Patients typically experience a burning or stinging sensation and reddening of the skin. It is recommended to keep the treated area dry and avoid water application for at least six to eight hours to maximize the peel's benefits.
5. How many Jessner peels are needed to see results?
"Since it is typically performed as a medium-depth peel, you may experience peeling for up to five days post-treatment," Dr. Garshick explains. "While you may notice improvement after a single peel, it is often recommended to undergo four to six peels to achieve optimal results." These peels should generally be spaced four to six weeks apart, depending on the patient's skin type and the conditions being treated.
6. How does a Jessner peel compare to other chemical peels?
The primary difference between a Jessner peel and other peels is its medium-depth nature. This means that unlike more superficial peels, patients are likely to experience redness and light peeling following a Jessner peel, but the benefits are more substantial, even with a single application. Stronger peels, often involving 25% TCA, penetrate deeper but require longer recovery times and sometimes sedation during application and up to two months of preparation before treatment. Additionally, as Dr. Garshick notes, "the Jessner peel is effective for various skin conditions due to its combination of different acids, making it a highly versatile peeling solution." The Jessner peel is often preferred over other popular peels like TCA and glycolic acid for patients with darker skin tones or those dealing with melasma, as it is milder.
7. How should you prepare for a Jessner peel?
As with any chemical peel, it is crucial to avoid sun exposure before and after a Jessner peel to minimize the risk of hyperpigmentation, and it is generally inadvisable to undergo the peel with tanned skin. "It is always wise to consult with your board-certified dermatologist, as avoiding harsh active ingredients that could irritate the skin or increase sensitivity, such as exfoliating acids like AHAs or BHAs, retinoids, or benzoyl peroxide, is often recommended," Dr. Garshick advises. "In some cases, your provider may suggest using a retinoid or hydroquinone just before the treatment, based on their specific plan, so it is best to communicate with your provider at least two to four weeks in advance to confirm the pre-peel protocol." Due to the ingredients in a Jessner peel, the treatment should not be performed during pregnancy, and it is generally advisable to avoid sweating or exercise for 24 hours post-treatment.
8. What can you expect after a Jessner peel?
Recovery from a Jessner peel is relatively straightforward, but there are certain considerations for patients. "The procedure may cause increased sun sensitivity, so it is vital to use a daily sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, with an SPF of 30 or higher," advises Dr. King. "This should be done indefinitely but is especially critical for a month after the peel." Generally, patients can resume their usual skincare routines about a week after treatment, though it is always advisable to discuss this with your provider, as the timeline may vary based on individual skin type and routine. You may also experience redness and light peeling, so consider your skin's reaction when reintroducing normal products.
